The home of Vintage and Classic Motorcycles.....

What on earth would make you get out of bed at 4:30am on a Sunday, Christmas morning? Maybe a sharp nudge in the back, followed by a “go and see what the kids are up to?” Staggering into the lounge room bleary eyed; only to find the kids sitting on the floor around the Christmas tree, screaming their little heads off, busily ripping open the presents you painstakingly wrapped the night before to discover that Santa left them a new iPod or XBox. Sound familiar?

Well let me tell you in 1927 it was a different story for members of the Harley Club of Victoria, they had arranged for an epic 12 day tour into the Victorian Alps, across the Great Diving Ranges. Not along the sealed multi-laned highway’s and main roads which we travel now, but along some of the harshest and most unforgiving pot-holed, rutted bush tracks, anywhere in the world. Fuel stops were far apart and in a time when repairs were carried out by blacksmiths. I can imagine that on Christmas eve the Grinham household in Footscray was a hive of activity as William, (a strapping fit young man in his mid 20’s) was double checking over his trusty Harley-Davidson and sidecar out-fit for the 3rd time which he had packed away enough with provisions, spare fuel and parts to get him and his comrades through the tour. Heading off to bed early, but being unable to sleep as he tossed and turned with his mind racing “had he forgotten anything? Finally drifting off at some time in the early hours of the morning, only to be woken from a deep slumber that seemed to last only minutes, by the startling sound of his noisy wind up alarm clock at 4:30am.

Flying out of bed, dressing in his warm woollen shirt and riding britches with braces, he is greeted in the kitchen with a hot cooked breakfast and cup of tea, (a mother’s love has no boundaries). Quickly racing through breakfast with the sound of his mother’s voice calling for him to be careful as he sat on the back door step lacing and buckling his leather-riding boots. The beam of light from above the back door penetrating into the darkness of the shed, here sat Bill’s pride and joy. The best that Mr Harley and Mr Davidson had ever produced in the small Milwaukee factory. The bike which had the reputation for endurance and reliability, the gleaming olive green of his beloved 1926 JD model of some 74 cubic inches and a very impressive 24 horsepower, fitted with a Goulding side car out-fit.  Pulling on his heavy full length leather coat with his peaked cap adorning his head Bill gives his machine a quick warm up, then it’s off to pick up his girlfriend Annie (later to become his wife,) who is also his passenger on the tour, and a honorary member of the club (Ladies could not be full members ... Very un-becoming).

According to Bill’s daughter Joan, “When dad left home in Footscray, you could hear the bike travelling all the way to North Melbourne,” a distance of some 5 miles. (In those days the E.P.A. noise pollution, and Mufflers were not a priority.) Pulling up at 287-9 Elizabeth street, the old Milledge Bros motorcycle shop and club sponsor, Bill views a line of bikes and out-fits already assembled. The riders and well-wishers milling around chatting and joking between themselves. Just enough time for a quick greeting and a photo or two, before they are briefed on the days ride.

The riders assembled, and their Captain Mr. Arthur Hauser outlines the hazards and the exceptional endurance that will be required for to days ride Eastward. “First stop to be Traralgon, some 97 miles away, partake in lunch and a fuel stop at the Franklin Street Garage, Fuel at 3/- a gallon. Then off again to Bairnsdale, the western gateway to the Lakes and Wilderness Region another 83 miles, hopefully before nightfall as they are to be greeted by the locals as arranged.” Today’s ride will be the longest single days journey on the tour, a total of some 180 miles for the day.

Sunday 25th December 1927… The XMAS TOUR 1927 OVER THE AUSTRALIAN ALPS has begun:

Elizabeth Street is awoken by the thunderous sound of those magnificent machines firing into life as the road captain wheels out into a deserted expanse, their bikes exhaust echoing between the buildings as they single file in convoy through the city. Just outside of the city, around South Yarra, the sealed road gave away to dirt, farmland and bush, this would continue like that (except when passing through the larger towns) most of the way on this tour. Sometime around 12 o’clock they pulled into Traralgon, had a bite to eat and filled up with petrol again. Then pushed on through the bush towards Bairnsdale, hopefully arriving shortly before the 6 O-Clock; closing time at the hotel... Some 180 miles in nearly 12 gruelling hours reflects the poor conditions of the roads they travelled. The local lads would have made sure the weary travellers didn’t dehydrate with a good supply of bottled Abbots Lager or Ballarat Berty beer, as tails of the days ride and experiences were toldlong into the night.

Monday 26th December 1927… (Boxing day) was a layover in Bairnsdale, for repairs to both machines and bodies, the boys all rested up had their bikes lined up in the street outside the local motorcycle repair works much to the amusement of the local well-wishers.

 

Tuesday 27 December 1927 … 10am departure from Bairnsdale to Lake’s Entrance, only a distance of 30 miles into the Great Dividing Ranges. There was none of this sissy-stuff of roads cut through the hills, these rutted roads followed the contours of the hills, often doubling back on themselves, negotiating potholes, horse drawn wagons, and other vehicles with poor overheated brakes coming towards them out of control on the long downhill runs on little more than single lane bush tracks and avoiding the startled wild-life just waiting to jump out of the bush in front of them. Upon arrival at Lake’s Entrance meals were supplied at Mrs.Griffiths Kia Ora house. Petrol was a reasonable 2/6. Lakes Entrance lies at the point where the lakes system meets the Southern Ocean so a launch trip was organised by the club in the afternoon for those who desired.

Wednesday 28th December 1927… 9am. Today’s activities included a 60-mile run up through the forest to the famous Buccan Caves, lunch, inspection of the caves; then the back-breaking return journey along the treacherous road to Lakes Entrance for dinner and refreshments, a round trip of 120 miles. Now we all know that “what happens on the run stays on the run” and so it should be, but I can just imagine the boys (and ladies) standing in awe viewing the timeless limestone formations and no doubt some smarty testing the underground chambers acoustic qualities with disgusting noises... much to the embarrassment of the ladies and the laughter of the men folk.

Thursday 29th December 1927... The Tour party left Lakes Entrance at 10am. setting off towards the Tambo River flats town of Bruthen at the doorstep of the beautiful but treacherous Snowy Mountains. Bruthen is nestled on the Alpine Road at the foot of the Great Dividing ranges and host to a spectacular rainforest. Taking with them a hamper to eat en route at a stopping place to be selected. After the lunch break, it was into the saddle again and continue on towards the gold rush town of Omeo, which still retains its historic character. At Oriental Claims, cliffs left by sluicing and tunnel openings from the gold rush can still be seen. Situated in an extinct volcano, it was the welcoming site of beautiful Lake Omeo. Arrangements were made to purchase Petrol at Mr T.H.Davidson’s garage for 2/6 a gallon. Mine host a Mr H. Sharabar’s Hill Top Hotel, was the designated place to partake meals and no doubt refreshments, as they reflected long into the evening the events of the days 90 mile ride.

Friday 30th December 1927… An early 9am sharp departure time was set for today’s hard ride of 70 miles to the beautiful alpine township of Bright. Stopping along the roadside en-route for lunch, fuel and repairs. The thunderous sound of their machines echoing through the mountain lined valleys along the way. Upon arrival to Bright they arranged to have meals at J.Mc Farlane’s Alpine hotel and replenish their fuel supplies.

Saturday 31st December 1927… Today they were leaving Bright and travelling some 44 miles through the sleepy alpine hamlet of Porepunkah and along the treacherous road to the summit of magnificent Mount Buffalo. For this reason the Riders were instructed on a departure time to leave as to catch the traffic flow to the summit, due to the road being one-way traffic up the mountain and to be mindful of the steep slopes and sheer drops. Explorers Hume and Hovell named the mountain in 1824 from its supposed resemblance to a buffalo. In 1856 miners working the Buckland River goldfield led the first tourist parties of miners up to the plateau to view the striking granite cliffs and tors of Mt Buffalo. Gold miners and botanists later began to find routes up to the plateau. Soon after the first road to the plateau were constructed, so the beginning of tourism started in the 1880s. Replacing some earlier more “rustic” accommodation. Mount Buffalo Chalet, was a granite and timber building built in 1910 by the Victorian Government Perched at the top of the gorge having stunning views over the Ovens Valley to the Victorian Alps, and on clear days all the way to Mt Kosciuszko The Victorian Railways managed the chalet from 1924.

The tour party would have partaken of refreshments in the Chalet; in the afternoon they explored the rock crevices which Aboriginal people before them made summer ascents to. Gathering and feasting on protein-rich Bogong Moths that cluster in the rocks, a far cry from the Devonshire tea (scones, strawberry jam and whipped cream) which was the specialty of the chalet. Then they set up their tents and camped amongst the snow gums
on the shores of Lake Catani. This was a wonderful place for a party to celebrate New Year’s Eve.

Sunday 1st January 1928… Their departure was delayed till the afternoon, they were a “little sluggish” due to last nights
celebrations? Or was it the high altitude rarity of oxygen? No,.. it was because the one-way traffic was coming up the mountain. So an afternoon, departure was scheduled for their journey along the beautiful Towanga valley with it’s famous Mount Bogong some 30 miles away.

Monday 2nd January 1928… Today they set off for the township of Benalla. The group were excited to attend a Sports meeting in the afternoon which had been arranged with other motorcycle clubs. In those days motorcycle club Sports meetings were conducted on a regular basis. Holding events such as the Hill Climb, Summer and Winter Trials, Speed Trials, Petrol Test, Circuit Racing. Points were awarded to participants and the member with the highest aggregate for the year was declared the club champion.

  Tuesday 3rd January 1928… This was a free day in Benalla, a day trip to Glenrowan (Kelly country) and return was organised for those who wanted to partake. The local Harley-Davidson agent Mr. Harry Humphries offered greetings, repairs and fuel.

Wednesday 4th January 1928… Today the group would leave Benalla travel along the now Midland Highway, and arrive in Mansfield for lunch at Mr. J. M. Youle’s Delatite Hotel. Then continue on to the township of Alexandra and partake in dinner at Mc Mair’s Hotel. A total of 100 miles for the day. Petrol was purchased from Mr. Aldou’s garage at 3/- a gallon.

Thursday 5th January 1928… The last day of the tour, only 96 miles from home. They travelled in convoy along the beautiful Yarra Valley and forest to the homestead of Graceburn Glen, lunched, re-fuelled at Mr. M. Dawborn’s garage in Healesville at a respectable 2/6 a gallon. Riding on they, must have had mixed feelings, jubilation in the knowledge that the sanctuary of home and a familiar bed awaited, but saddened that the 840 mile tour was coming to an all too quick end as the miles clicked over closer and closer to home. To them they were not pioneers of Australian Motorcycle history; nor were their rewards monetary. Their rewards were the exploration by motorcycle of a harsh but beautiful country, the support given, memories of comradeship, new friendships forged, together with the acceptance and admiration of the locals they met during this tour. Are these not the values we all cherish with our brother and sister motorcycle enthusiast? I guess little has changed in 80 years after all.

I wish to thank… Rod Giri…. without his research and fossicking this story would have been lost forever.
By Warren Pariossien …. aka WozzA
18th Feb 2007.